Hara Hara Mahadev… Hara Hara Mahadev…

The chants of the devotees echoed all around as I walked down the narrow lanes of Kashi, heading towards Gate No. 2 of the four main gates of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. After a refreshing shower, I felt both physically and spiritually renewed, eager to witness the Shayan Aarti.

As I made my way through the bustling alleys, I encountered Rahul, the guest house owner. After a brief hello, he asked where I was headed. "Shayan Aarti," I replied, to which he smiled and wished me well. I continued walking until I reached the first checkpoint near the gate.

After passing the initial security, I submitted all my belongings except for my wallet, prasad, and milk for the deity. In Kashi, near Gate No. 2, the counters for submitting belongings are inside a building to the left as you cross the gate. Stalls line either side of the path leading to the second checkpoint. After this checkpoint, a flight of steps descends to the ground floor, leading to the third checkpoint.

As I crossed this point, the grand gopuram of the temple came into view. I had officially entered the inner corridor. There was one final checkpoint near the main door of the temple, where four lines from the four gates form a circle around the main gopuram . I had arrived around 9:45 PM, just in time; the lines move swiftly during Shayan Aarti as the rituals start promptly.

Before the aarti, Vishwanath Ji is beautifully decorated, and this can be seen from the inner corridor surrounding the main temple. Tickets for this privileged view are usually booked two to three months in advance. Another way to access the inner corridor is by being a VVIP, who can receive a limited number of tickets based on their status.

I approached the inner corridor after my darshan, but being short, I struggled to catch a glimpse of Kashi Vishwanath Ji through the crowded barricades. As I shifted positions to find a better view, a policeman, who had been observing my efforts, approached and asked if I wanted to cross the barricade. "Yes," I responded, and to my surprise, he gave me permission.

With his approval, I jumped over the barricades and moved closer to Kashi Vishwanath Ji, finally having the darshan I yearned for. After taking in the divine sight, I returned to my spot behind the barricade, filled with immense satisfaction.

After the decoration, prasad is offered to Lord Shiva. During this time, all priests and cameramen exit, and the four doors of the inner sanctum are closed. This is a crucial part of the Shayan Aarti, and the atmosphere briefly turns serene and still. The darshan is usually telecast live, but after the prasad is offered, the cameras are turned off, and no one is allowed near the inner sanctum.

Moments later, the poojari sends the prasad to the counter outside the inner corridor, where it is distributed among all present, including police and security. A common prasad is payasam, made with rice and jaggery, often leaving devotees searching for water to clean their sticky hands. The drinking water station becomes the makeshift handwashing spot, and the area often becomes damp, requiring careful footing.

As the Shayan Aarti began, the temple resounded with the harmonious blend of drums, bells, and claps. The locals, familiar with every verse, sang with full hearts, filling the temple with a chorus of love, hope, and gratitude towards Lord Shiva. The powerful chant of Har Har Mahadev echoed louder than any concert, transcending the crowd into a collective state of devotion.

For about 45 minutes, the aarti carried on, each second brimming with energy, leaving goosebumps. I was overwhelmed with emotion, unable to contain my tears by the end. It felt like my soul had found peace. I never imagined the aarti would be this mesmerizing; it was beyond words, a moment of deep spiritual fulfillment.

Before leaving, I had one final darshan. I didn’t pray; I simply said, “Thank you.” Within minutes, the curtains were drawn, the doors were closed, and we were all ushered out to prepare for the early morning rituals. As I walked back to the guest house, I retrieved my belongings and made my way back.

The clock showed around 12:10 AM, and a missed call from Chintu, who manages the guest house, flashed on my phone. I called back, and his concerned voice greeted me, “Where are you? We were waiting for you.” I reassured him, saying I had just finished the aarti and would be back shortly. When I arrived, he seemed relieved but reminded me of the late hour, urging me to rest.

That night, despite the whirlwind of emotions, I experienced the most peaceful sleep ever, with the echo of Har Har Mahadev still resonating in my heart.